When Akash and Nikita Mehta were children, they’d sit with their grandmother in India and listen as she oiled their hair and told them stories. In those tales, animals could talk, and everyone lived in harmony with nature. The ritual of hair oiling—an ancient Indian tradition—would go on to become the inspiration for Fable & Mane, the haircare brand the siblings would launch years later.
Before that, the two pursued different career paths: Nikita worked for their father’s fragrance company, while Akash held digital roles at Dior, Estée Lauder Companies and Burberry. Their separate but equally impressive career trajectories eventually converged when they decided to start a haircare line together.
Launched in early 2020, Fable & Mane is an Ayurvedic-inspired hair care brand inspired by the stories their grandmother told in their childhood. The line-up includes a hair oil, hair mask, shampoo and conditioner. That ethos of living in harmony with nature also extends to the brand cause they support. The tigers on the packaging aren’t just an emblem of India, they also represent a cause the animal lovers are passionate about, which led them to found the Fable Fund, dedicated to wild tiger conservation. The siblings chatted with 100 ML from their home in London about the origins of the brand.
What was it like launching Fable & Mane during a pandemic?
Nikita: It was actually the perfect time because everyone was at home and taking the time to do these at-home rituals. There’s no better time to oil your hair and just let it be because how much do we just heat style and colour? It was challenging initially because we had lots of in-store events and a whole activation planned but like with any start-up, you just have to adapt and pivot. Now we have a robust innovation planned for the next year and a half. It almost worked as a blessing in disguise. Also, Tiger King came out and our cause is about tigers in captivity.
For anyone who might not know, what is hair oiling?
It comes from the word called chāmpo [in Sanskrit], which means massage your hair with plant oils. That’s where the word shampoo actually came from today—we just added the soap and the lather. In India, the ritual is on dry hair before you shampoo. You heat it up and put plant-based oils like amla, coconut, sesame and hibiscus. It’s mainly used for cooling the scalp for tension or stress. We call it a mind oil as well. The main benefit is to grow beautiful, long hair. It also helps give a sound sleep. It goes back to 5,000 years ago to an Ayurvedic text called Charaka Saṃhitā. It’s a time-tested ritual passed down from generations. Growing up, we didn’t question it until I started doing my research on the scientific benefits. Some people do it daily, some do it weekly—it’s a personal preference.
Can you walk me through the ritual of hair oiling?
You want to start in the evening, just before you sleep. Use a dropper full of oil in your palms and rub your hands together. I get it heated up in my hands and inhale. I start with my crown chakra—that’s the point at the top of your head between your ears—and massage it in for five minutes, going into the back and my ends if they’re dry. I leave it in for half an hour at least. Sometimes, I leave it in overnight. The important thing is how you take care of your hair after. Rinse with cold water, then shampoo. I never apply shampoo directly into my hair. I foam it in my hands first and then apply it on my scalp because it’ll be more gentle. Usually, I don’t condition because the oil does that for me. The ritual of massage is key to oiling.
The HoliRoots Treatment Oil has a heartfelt story behind it involving your grandmother. I’d love to learn more about that.
She was born in India and was a storehouse of myths, tales and stories. Every time you sat with her, she’d have cup of chai at 4 pm, then she’d nap, we’d play a cards game and she’d tell me how in India she’d use the neem leaves from her garden for her hair. Everything she needed for her external and internal remedies grew in her garden. Growing up, I’d ask her to tell me what happened next with the fables she’d share—about animals who could talk, Akbar and Birbal and the Mughal empire. She’d say, “Okay, sit down, let me give you an oil massage.” Hair brought people together and strengthened relationships. There was an emotional benefit and that’s what made it special.
When you were deciding on what ingredients to use for Fable & Mane, which ones were inspired from your grandmother’s home remedies and which ones did you add?
In our HoliRoots complex, there’s dashmool, which is ten different roots from ten different trees and plants. It’s an incredible tonic for the mind. It was really unique and something we could use that wasn’t out there as much. There’s ashwagandha, which is a great adaptogen for stress and a sensitive scalp. I also wanted some key ingredients with hair benefits like amla and brahmi—these are all the king of herbs for hair in India. I wanted to bring in some of my grandma’s favourite herbs and made my requests.
The texture of the HoliRoots Hair Mask was inspired by the flavours and ingredients of Indian dessert, correct?
India is such a vibrant country full of flavours. The oil was [inspired by] the spices and roots. We also wanted to touch into the gourmand textures and fragrances as well. There’s an Indian dessert called mango shrikhand. I looked to that for texture, plus mango is incredible for your hair. It was the idea of hair food and looking into the sweet side of India and different culinary delights. Even our conditioner is like kheer. All these DIY ancient Indian rituals start from homemade rituals like tea rinses and coconut milk.
Fable & Mane has a storybook-like quality in its branding. Was that inspired by your grandmother’s storytelling?
It was a couple of things. When we did the branding and visuals, it was inspired by the architecture of India. My grandfather was very spiritual so I wanted the wellness and healing as well. It was grandmother’s story, which was about the ingredients, but it was my grandfather’s spirit who was a famous healer back in the day. And, my brother and I are passionate about tigers and the tiger is the emblem of India. It was bringing that together and going back to our childhood telling these fables.
HAIR RITUALS:
Nikita:
I’ve been experimenting so much during quarantine. I’ve been doing hair oiling and making hair rinses like black tea with rosemary. It’s really made a difference. I’m just a hair junkie so I’m trying everything at home. Once or twice a week, I’ll wash my hair. I comb rather than brush it. When it’s wet, I try not to put it up in a towel and let it air-dry. I also use the HoliRinse Mask once a week for a deep conditioning treatment.
Akash:
I’m someone who oils his hair daily and I’ve been doing it since I was a child. I have hair that absorbs oil quite quickly. Often, I leave the oil on overnight whether it’s on a towel or a silk pillowcase. I let it sit in, do it’s magic and wash it out. I think that’s led to me having quite thick hair. Sometimes when I meditate at night, I give myself a scalp massage. I’m not always good at it, but when I do get the time, I do that for sure.
SHOP:
Fable & Mane HoliRoots Pre-wash Treatment Hair Oil, $45, sephora.com
Fable & Mane HoliRoots Hair Repairing Mask, $42, sephora.com